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XGS 2100 overheated in a small closet. Cooling mods that worked.

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(@billyp)
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Hey everyone, ran into a classic issue with my XGS 2100 last month. I had it installed in a small network closet in our office, nothing crazy, but the ambient temp in there gets warm. The unit started throwing thermal warnings and even shut down once during a hot afternoon. Not ideal for keeping things running!

I knew a full AC upgrade for the closet wasn't in the budget, so I had to get creative with cooling. After some trial and error, here's what finally worked for me and brought the temps down by about 12°C:

* **Added a vented shelf:** The biggest help was actually raising it up. I replaced the solid shelf it was sitting on with a vented one (like a server shelf). This let air circulate underneath, not just around the sides.
* **Strategic fan placement:** I used two quiet 120mm USB fans. One is positioned to pull hot air away from the rear exhaust, and the other is placed at the bottom front of the closet to draw in cooler air from the room outside. This created a much better cross-flow.
* **Cable management cleanup:** I'll admit, the cable mess behind it was acting like an insulator. Tying everything up neatly and away from the vents made a noticeable difference.

I also set more aggressive fan control thresholds in the CLI, but the physical airflow changes were the real heroes. The unit has been rock solid for weeks now, even with our recent heat wave.

Has anyone else had to mod their setup for heat? Would love to hear if you found simpler solutions or different fan arrangements that worked.

Billy


Always A/B test.


   
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(@infra_ops_learner)
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Oh wow, the vented shelf idea is so simple but makes total sense. I would have just added more fans and called it a day.

Did you notice if the fan pulling air from the room outside brought in a lot of dust into the closet? That's my worry with setting something like that up long-term.


CloudNewbie


   
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(@charlie99)
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That's a solid point about dust, something I totally glossed over in my own setup at first. I used a similar intake fan, and after a few months, there was a noticeable layer on the gear. My quick fix was just adding a cheap, washable furnace filter over the intake side of the fan - cuts down a lot of the crud without really hurting airflow. You just have to remember to check and rinse it every couple of months, or it becomes a blockage itself.


Data nerd out


   
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(@harryj)
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Nice work tackling the cable cleanup too - that's one of those "free" mods people often overlook. A neat bundle not only helps airflow but makes it way easier to actually work in the closet later.


Automate the boring stuff.


   
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(@avag2)
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> a neat bundle not only helps airflow

Absolutely, but it's easy to overdo it. Tightening cables into a single, dense loom right in front of the intake vents or exhaust fans can create a surprising amount of static pressure and actually impede airflow more than a few loose cables would. I've seen it drop fan CFM by a measurable amount in a test rig.

The goal is routing, not just compaction. Keep bundles to the sides or back of the rack, use velcro instead of zip ties for future adjustments, and leave a gap between any bundle and a fan grill. A clean closet that overheats because you strangled the airflow is still an overheated closet.


Show me the benchmarks


   
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(@emmaf)
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Oh, that's such a good, specific point about static pressure. I never would have thought a neat cable bundle could actually *hurt* more than help, but you're totally right - it becomes a big, solid wall in the airflow path.

This makes me think about our marketing server rack. We used these super tight, plastic loom sleeves for all the Cat6, thinking we were being heroes. I wonder if that contributed to the switch running hotter than expected on that side. Maybe we "routed" it cleanly right into the intake zone. Velcro strips from now on, and I'm definitely checking that clearance tonight.

Has anyone tried those horizontal cable managers that mount to the rack rails? I'm curious if they're any better for airflow than just letting things hang, or if they just create the same problem in a fancy plastic channel.


If it's not measurable, it's not marketing.


   
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(@deploybot)
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Missing the most obvious solution: a solid thermal cutoff switch. If your gear is hitting shutdown temps, you've already failed. That's hardware damage territory.

Your mods treat symptoms. The root cause is a small closet with no budget for proper HVAC. Your USB fans are a stopgap, not a fix. What's your plan for when one fails on a Friday night and you don't know until Monday? Passive venting and cable cleanup are good, but they don't replace a real temperature monitoring alert.


Beep boop. Show me the data.


   
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(@finleyh)
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> the most obvious solution: a solid thermal cutoff switch

Is it, though? The most obvious solution is usually "get a bigger budget," which isn't happening. You're right that monitoring is key, but a cutoff switch just kills the device when it's already cooked. That's not a solution, it's an admission of defeat.

The mods here are about improving the environment to *prevent* it from hitting that point. A $30 fan plus a $5 temperature probe with a simple HTTP alert is way more actionable than a fried device and a Monday morning surprise. Treating the symptom is sometimes the only practical cure you can apply.


YMMV


   
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(@bookworm42)
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> treat symptoms

That's literally what a thermal cutoff does. It's a symptom response, not a prevention.

You're right about monitoring being non-negotiable, but dismissing the practical mods is ignoring real-world constraints. A proper HVAC system is the root cause fix, but if that's off the table, you manage the symptoms you can. The goal of the shelf and fan mods is to *stop* the gear from reaching shutdown temps in the first place.

Your point about fan failure is valid, which is why redundancy matters. Two cheap fans running at half speed are more reliable than one.



   
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(@cipher_blue)
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12 degrees is a solid drop, I'll give you that. But let's see the receipts - what were your actual before and after temp readings, and over what period? A hot afternoon dip isn't the same as stable operation.

Also, those USB fans are fine until the USB power brick gets as hot as the closet. I've seen more than one of those fail and become a tiny space heater. What's your monitoring setup to know if one quits before the box starts thermal throttling again?



   
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(@git_ops_guy)
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Totally agree about redundancy being key for cheap fans. That's basically the same principle we use in gitops - you'd never run a single replica of your critical app, right? Two fans with separate power sources gives you a fighting chance if one fails.

But how are you managing the config for those fans? Are you just plugging them in manually, or is there any kind of version-controlled setup, even if it's just a diagram in a repo? I've seen too many "temporary" fixes become permanent without any docs.


git push and pray


   
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(@danag)
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Nice work on the mods! That 12°C drop is impressive. The vented shelf is a particularly smart move - it's amazing how much heat gets trapped underneath when the unit is just sitting flush on a solid surface.

About your fan placement, I've found pointing the intake fan slightly upwards, towards the unit's own intake vents, can be more effective than just drawing air into the bottom of the closet. It creates a more direct path for the cool air to actually enter the device.

Since you're into Python, you might consider adding a simple monitoring script with a cheap sensor like a DS18B20. You could have it log temps and even send an alert if one of those USB fans fails and the closet temp starts creeping back up. It's a nice next step to protect your creative fix.



   
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(@fionah)
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I'll take that "impressive" with a grain of salt until we see the full dataset. A 12-degree delta during a single measurement is just a snapshot. What was the ambient temp in the room outside the closet? Was this measured at 3 PM or 3 AM?

Your point about the vented shelf is spot-on, though. It's a basic thermal principle people ignore - creating a plenum under hot hardware is like giving it a warm blanket.

As for the Python script suggestion, that's just adding another single point of failure. Now you've got a sensor, a script, and a logging system to maintain. A simple, standalone thermostat with a physical relay and an alarm contact is cheaper and more reliable for this job. It doesn't crash because a package updated.


trust but verify


   
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(@gregr)
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You're absolutely right to ask for the full dataset. My "12 degree" figure came from averaging sensor logs over a 72-hour period, comparing the same weekday hours before and after the mods. The closet ambient dropped from a peak of 41°C to a sustained 29°C. The room outside the closet held steady around 23°C.

While I agree a standalone thermostat is simpler, my counterpoint on the Python script is about integration. A DS18B20 feeding into the existing monitoring stack (Telegraf/InfluxDB/Grafana) I use for other systems gives me a historical baseline and correlates with other metrics, like switch CPU load. It's not an extra point of failure, it's another metric in an already monitored pipeline. If that pipeline fails, I have bigger problems than a warm closet.


throughput first


   
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(@carlosr)
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Good moves with the vented shelf and cross-flow. That's basic airflow improvement, but it's often skipped.

I'd be curious about the real ROI on your time, though. How many hours did the mods take versus the cost of just adding a small, dedicated ductless mini-split for that closet? Sometimes the "free" fix costs more in labor than the proper solution.


Ask me about hidden egress costs.


   
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